A Night at the Fado

Portugal has a few national past-times – eating grilled sardines (nothing like we have in the US), soccer and Fado.

The Portuguese people love misery. The more people gathered together in misery, the better! And what better way to express it than through music.

Fado is usually a melancholy series of songs about unrequited love, longing and unfulfilled dreams. There are many fado houses in Lisbon but we were able to visit (as a group) a true local, inexpensive fado house in the very old working class district of Alfama. This place was NOT fancy – think roadside diner minus 2. But is  authentic. The sardines were being grilled on a round charcoal grill outside in the small cobblestone street when we arrived. The smell was aweful!!! I couldn’t imagine eating those fish! We were shown into a small, cramped room with tables jammed together, the room was lit by dim lights covered with red cloths and I couldn’t imagine where musicians and performers would stand! The party started – the wine flowed, everyone was having a great time! Local olives, cheese and bread covered the table and then the sardines arrived!!! The moment of truth was at hand! And….they were fabulous!!! Gone was the fishy smell, instead they had a wonderful smoked smell and mild taste. I expertly boned both of mine and thoroughly enjoyed them.

Just as we finished the fish and before the next 2 courses the fado music started. Two guitar players brought their chairs out and placed them in the center and began playing. The music was beautiful and haunting at the same time, almost too beautiful to be sad. As the family style portions of pork, chicken and salad were passed around the tables the singers, one at a time, began. Although we could not understand most of the words, a word here and there helped us understand the meaning of the songs – love not returned, sadness, dreams lost or not obtained. It was something I don’t think you would see anywhere else. Pure, simple and expressive of the Portuguese culture. The singers were incredible! We left late into the evening, our stomachs and souls satisfied.

Tomorrow we leave Lisbon for Evora.